Plant Names and Requirments List

Web Links:

Click on the plant name for our page for the plant. Beyond that, Web sources are usually given for data. If there is only one link on a line (other than the name), the other data is normally from the same link. If more than one link is on a line, data is from different links. This chart is for established plants. For planting requirements, click on the links.

Fertilizer:

From 1999 to 2009, we added virtually no fertilizer to our landscape except on the lawn and we have had few problems, which is not to say no problems, though not necessarily problems attributable to lack of fertilizer.

Although the native soil is full of rocks and roots, this area has always been very heavily wooded, so maybe the leaves and other forest debris have kept the soil healthy. Still, if a source says that some plant should be fertilized, we have shown that in the chart, even though the plant has done well for us without it. Many links say to fertilize in the early Spring before new growth simply by adding a layer of compost, and we intend to try that.

Anti-Critter Defense:

Being surrounded by wild wooded areas, we get critters in our yard at night. The most destructive are armadillos, which dig around looking for worms. We wouldn't mind if they stayed in the mulch, but they go wherever the worms are, which is usually in the enriched, well-turned soil around our plants. And while they generally dig between plants, they are not beyond digging up small plants to get to whatever is nearby.

To defend against this, we cover new beds with "chicken wire" which is actually stronger than real chicken wire and in 1" squares. We then cover the wire with mulch. Above bulbs, we just lay the wire on the ground and then cut openings for new growth as needed.

For new plants which already stick out above ground, we cut the wire to make a hole for the plants, then bend the wire up to support the plant and to help defend it if a critter decides to go after it.

Light and Soil:

We have to keep checking light requirements because light changes as trees branch out or a tree or limb falls. "Full sun" is generally more than 6 hours of direct sun. "Part shade" is generally 4-6 hours of direct sun. If "part shade to full sun" is shown, plants usually do better in full sun, though they may require more water. If no soil requirement is shown, assume a pH of 5.5 to 7.5 is needed. Timed photos show that we have no "full sun".

Watering:

Virtually every plant on this list has the same requirements regarding soil and water: the soil must drain well but retain moisture, mulch to help retain moisture, and water no more than 2-3 times a week for 20 minutes with a sprinkler system after established. Many sources say to water once a week when there has been less than 1" rain for the week, but some shallow-rooted plants need watering more often. Just watch for wilting. "Sprinkler", in the chart, indicates that regular watering of some type is needed. Water-logged soil is bad for these plants, even if the chart says to water freely. Specs saying to water less than once a week, including "drought tolerant", is an outside limit and normal watering, such as in the sprinkler system, will not harm these plants. Drought tolerant plants must be watered at least until established.


Anti-critter:       Click for enlargement.

PLANT NAME FERTILIZATION OTHER CARE POSSIBLE PROBLEMS LIGHT & SOIL BLOOM TIME WATER REQUIRED
Abelia, Pink
'Edward Goucher'		 Spring, before new growth Prune in Winter pest tolerant part shade to full sun Spring thru Fall 2-3 weeks
Ajuga reptans "Bronze Beauty" Early Spring Deadhead crown rot full shade to full sun April-May sprinkler
Astilbe spring: light fert. or compost followed by a 2" layer of mulch divide every 3-4 years as new growth emerges in Spring   shade late spring or early summer likes moist soil
Aucuba Japonica 'Variegata' Spring, before new growth; monthly     shade Mar.-Apr., maybe Autumn water freely
Azalea (Rhododendron indicum) Bayers every 6 weeks no dead-heading; prune after spring flowering   full sun to part shade; less will not produce proper blooms various, see page sprinkler, but don't let ground dry out
Barberry, Crimson Pygmy Spring, before new growth     Full sun   moderate; prefers dry
Barberry, Golden Spring, before new growth     part shade to full sun   moderate; prefers dry
Beardtongue
(Penstemon digitalis)		   Deadhead for rebloom powdery mildew, rust, leaf spots, Southern blights; somewhat invasive, but easily pulled; deer-resistant part shade to full sun May through June drought tolerant, sprinkler is okay
White Blazing Star Liatris spicata ‘Alba’         mid- to late-summer drought tolerant
Blood Grass, Japanese (Imperata)   Remove brown blades after frost. Cut back to 4"-6" in Spring. Invasive   N/A requires moist soil
Bradford Pear normally, use no nitrogen prune after flowering large limbs/trunks can split off in high winds     sprinkler
Buckeye, Red (Aesculus Pavia) once a year   poisonous; no serious pests part shade to full sun   weekly is preferable; low drought tolerance is claimed here, though it does okay on its own in the wild during drought
Butterfuly Weed
Asclepias tuberosa		 none needed propagates from seed if not dead-headed; cut back to 6" after bloom for rebloom aphids, but read link part shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Camellia fertilize sparingly or March and July prune in Spring       once a week
Candy Lily     no serious problems part shade to full sun    
Cedar tree            
Clematis after buds are 2", every 2 weeks until in full bloom, then resume 4" of mulch to keep roots cool   part shade to full sun late Spring sprinkler
Columbine
Aquilegia 'Dorothy Rose'		 once-twice a year propagate by seed,
not by division		 leaf miners,
(rabbit resistant)		 part shade to full sun    
Columbine, Mixed use slow-release granular in Spring; can also use liquid fertilizer every 20-25 days   pre-treat with fungicide in spring, with insecticide at end of Winter part shade to full sun   every 1-2 weeks
Cotoneaster every 2 weeks until flowering, then monthly     part to full sun    
Crape Myrtle little/none needed; over-fert. can reduce cold hardiness cutting back ("Crapemurder") not recommended; deadhead to promote more blooming aphids and some diseases are possible, but not prevalent full sun for full flowering mid-Summer, 70-100 days drought tolerant, but heavily water once in Spring and once in Fall
Crested Iris   do not cover top of rhizome   shade to full sun Spring dry to moderately moist soil; consistently moist if in full sun
Chrysanthemums every 7-10 days from midsummer until buds begin to show color pinch off tops when 6"-8" tall for bushy plants, earlier flowering   full sun mid-summer to early winter  
Cyclamen         mid- to late-summer  
PLANT NAME FERTILIZATION OTHER CARE POSSIBLE PROBLEMS LIGHT & SOIL BLOOM TIME WATER REQUIRED
Daffodils if at all: 5-10-5 in early Fall and very early Spring; top-dress with compost once/twice a year do NOT cut back nor braid the foliage (but flower stalks can be cut back); mulch 3" after several hard freezes; lift and divide bulbs every 5-10 years in early Summer; alternate years: remove flowers after they wilt for bigger flowers next year or leave for seeds; plant in Oct.-Nov.   part shade to full sun early Spring  
Daylilies use low nitrogen (5-10-15 or 6-12-12) fertilizer in Spring and mid-Summer compost-mulch in the Spring;
deadhead for reblooming;
when no more buds on a stalk, cut it to the ground;
remove dead foliage in Fall;
division is not essential		 Yellow leaves are not a sign of sickness; the yellow part can be left on or cut off, but don't cut off if any green is left. part shade to full sun; soil: 6.0-6.5 pH late Spring to Autumn drought resistant, but you will get better flowering if watered
Dogwood   2" of pine needles or bark mulch Read about diseases part shade is better early Spring, 2-4 weeks once a week to depth of 6"
Easter Lily as Winter approaches, feed 10-10-10 fertilizer, add few inches of mulch and remove in the Spring As plant begins to die back, cut stems to the ground for new growth/blooms     June or July for a couple of weeks; may rebloom in September  
Emerald 'n' Gold Euonymus
Euonymus fortunei 'Emerald 'n' Gold'		   prune solid green shoots; we have had this since 1999, in the sprinkler system, but no fertilizing scale infestations;
can be invasive, climbing nearby trees		 shade to full sun    
Ferns during growing season, once a month with a high-nitrogen fertilizer   a variety of insects like aphids are possible, but we've had no problems     sprinkler
Fountain Grass in Spring before new growth or same schedule as your yard's grass cut back in early Spring to within 6"-10" of the ground   light shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Foxglove (Digitalis) thin layer of compost each spring followed by a 2"-layer of mulch NOT perennials, so leave last flower stalks to self-sow seeds crown rot if not well drained part shade to full sun midsummer sprinkler
French Mulberry or American Beauty Berry (Callicarpa americana) none needed, but you can apply 10-20-20 at 4-month intervals     full shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Gaillardia (G. x grandiflora 'Goblin') water-soluble, quick release every 2 weeks during the growing season a short-lived perennial, so let flower stalks go to seed to get it to come back powdery mildew full sun early Summer to early Fall dry to normal
Glads (Gladiolus 'Nanus Mix') When spikes show in the leaf sheath, feed with liquid fertilizer 2"-4" mulch to retain moisture and control weeds; deadhead spent blooms, cut back stalks when flowers are gone, leave foliage for next year apply insecticide when plants are 10" high full sun   sprinkler
Helleborus organic mulch or bone meal in the Fall cut old flower stems as far back as possible black spot; remove diseased foliage part shade Winter and very early Spring somewhat drought tolerant, but light moisture is best
Hibiscus every 2 weeks in the Fall aphids, ants, spider mites, mealy bugs, white fly; spray every 5-7 days (never Malathion) part shade to full sun    
Hyacinth, Blue Grape
Muscari armeniacum 		add compost annually dig up and separate bulbs after a couple of years. After leaves die, prune them at the base.   full shade to full sun spring  
Hydrangea
Hydrangea macrophylla		 a 10-10-10 in May and July, 2-3 cups for a large plant, spread around drip line (1) how to change colors;
(2) prune in Summer after flowers fade. Blooms on old growth.		   morning sun, afternoon shade   water often
Inkberry
Ilex glabra		 apply a layer of compost in Spring and 2" layer of mulch prune in late Winter or early Spring   part shade to full sun   sprinkler
Irises 5-10-5 lightly dusted around and between plants in early Spring and very late Fall. Add Bone Meal when planting. remove only limp, brown, or diseased leaves; keep garden litter away from the rhizome, especially during Winter; cut bloom stalks (not leaves) close to ground after blooming; divide every 2-3 years and inspect for borers and soft rot part shade to full sun; slightly acidic soil varies with variety; ours start in March, end in May okay in our sprinkler, but established palnts do not require watering
Dutch Iris
Iris hollandica		   Plant 4" deep, 3" apart, prune yellow foilage in the fall   full sun late spring to early summer water during growing season
Japanese Maple apply compost mulch around trees early in the Spring (or balanced fertilizer)     morning sun, afternoon shade   sprinkler
Juniper 9-15-13 in early April before new growth     full sun; 5.6-7.5 pH soil   drought tolerant; overwatering causes root rot
PLANT NAME FERTILIZATION OTHER CARE POSSIBLE PROBLEMS LIGHT & SOIL BLOOM TIME WATER REQUIRED
Knockout Rose sprinkle time-released rose fert. in Spring after pruning cut in early Spring to 12"-18"; deadheading not needed   full sun every 5-6 weeks  
Lantana
Verbenaceae		 none or water-soluble 10-10-10 and/or organic mulch in early Spring cut back to 12" in January and apply 3" of pine straw mulch   full sun blooms Summer through Fall drought tolerant
Leucothoe
Leucothoe axillaris		 early Spring if growth wanted     full shade to partial sun; acidic soil May sprinkler
Ligustrum, Wax-Leaf monthly with water-soluble fertilizer diluted by half; (we have never fertilized)     best in full sun   drought tolerant
Lungwort
Pulmonaria		 small amount of 10-10-10 in early Spring shear back after flowering; mulch for Winter protection   part shade late May sprinkler
Lily, Olina Tango            
Lily Tree, Robina use slow-release fertilizer     part shade to full sun   sprinkler
Mediterranean Pinks
Saponaria ocymoides		            
Mimosa
Albizzia julibrissin		 early Spring before new growth   short-lived; wood is brittle; messy, dropping blooms, leaves, seed pods; wilt disease is a problem full sun for best flowering   drought tolerant
Monarda, Jacob Cline            
Mountain Bells mix         spring  
Mulberry tree       part shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Nandina     reputation as invasive, but not in our yard part shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Ox-Eye Daisy           drought tolerant
Passion Flower use ratio like 2-1-3   shallow rooted - keep mulched part shade to full sun   sprinkler
Pink/White Bleeding Heart (NOT the vine) Dicentra spectabilis thin layer of compost in Spring with 2" mulch on top after first killing frost, cut back to 1"-2"   part shade; 5.6-7.5 pH Spring, and may rebloom sprinkler
Polemonium, a.k.a: Jacob's Ladder   cut back after flowering for possible autumn flowering   part to full shade Spring/early Summer sprinkler
Poppy, Oriental mix Well-drained soil with slow-release fertilizer in spring or compost. Cover crown of bareroot plants with 3" of humus-enriched soil. No deadheading.   full (8 hours) sun Spring, dormant in Summer 1"/week when flowering, little when dormant
Purple Wintercreeper
Euonymus fortunei		 (We pulled this up after learning how invasive it is.)   very invasive full shade to full sun flowers in early Summer, fruits in Fall, evergreen vine  
Pyracantha       shade to full sun   sprinkler
Quince
Chaenomeles speciosa		 organic mulch in mid-Spring and high potash fertilizer in late winter, plus a high-nitrogen fertilizer every 3-4 years     part shade to full sun; 4.0-6.5 pH early Spring sprinkler
Redbud
Cercis canadensis		 fertilize in Fall if indicated by soil testing   canker fungi if tree is under stress and has an open wound; insects in our yard like to chew the leaves part shade to full sun blooms in Spring drought tolerant
Red-Tip Photinia Photinia fraseri   pruning for air flow around branches is crucial; prune in late Spring; we have never pruned ours and have had no problems remove diseased leaves from around tree part shade to full sun   sprinkler
River Birch fertilize ONLY if indicated by soil testing do NOT prune between May 1 and August 1, which is when birch borers attack   full sun, but cool, moist soil   sprinkler
PLANT NAME FERTILIZATION OTHER CARE POSSIBLE PROBLEMS LIGHT & SOIL BLOOM TIME WATER REQUIRED
Scabiosa light application of organic fertilizer in early Spring and cut back old foliage to 3" cut back old flowers to base of stem for more blooms; divide every 3 years in early Spring   full sun (but we have it in part shade);
Soil: 7-8.5 pH		 early Summer to mid-Fall sprinkler
Sedum, October Daphne
Sedum sieboldii 		      part shade to full sun late summer/early fall very drought tolerant
Self-Heal/Heal-All
Prunella vulgaris		 a wildflower - it needs little or no care     part shade to full sun May to September  
Snowdrops
Galanthus woronowii		   plant 3" deep; propogates by self-seeding and bulb offsets deer resistant sun-dappled shade very early spring moist, humus-rich soil
Spider Lily
Lycoris radiata		   deadhead as blooms fade; divide every 4-5 years   part shade to full sun; 7.6-7.8 pH late Summer to early Fall sprinkler
Spiderworts Tradescantia 'Blushing Bride' April & July Cut to the ground for hard freezes.   full sun   Needs lots of water
Spirea   deadhead       sprinkler
Strawberry Tree(?)         berry clusters turn red in Fall sprinkler
Surprise Lilies
Lycoris squamigera		 after the blooms fade and in early Spring divide every 3-5 years   part shade to full sun blooms after July 4th for 4-6 days  
Magic Carpet Thyme       full sun all summer sprinkler
Toad Lily Tricyrtis       part shade; 4.5-6.5 pH mid-summer to early autumn sprinkler/moist
Rembrandt Tulips mix            
Verbena - Vervain       part shade to full sun   drought tolerant
Veronica apply thin compost in Spring divide every 3-4 years   full sun (We have had it in part shade for 10+ years.)   sprinkler
Red Prince Weigela April 1, May 20, July 4, Aug.15, Oct.30 (We have never fertilized.) we have never fertilized we prune for size part shade to full sun; 6.8-7.7 pH May-June sprinkler
Densiformis Yew       shade to full sun   sprinkler
Zoysia Grass  (If this link does not work, click here for backup page.) The name link in the first column is to a complete annual maintenance schedule.     shade to full sun   sprinkler
_________________ ________________ __________________ __________________ _______________ _________________ _________________


(I have condensed the following for my own use from http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-203/426-203.html.
Also see the "Plant Care" section on this page: http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pd_ef1f.html)

Soil Preparation:

Few perennials survive more than one year if the soil is not properly prepared. Preparation is best done in the Fall.

First, have the soil tested. The results will indicate how much fertilizer needs to be added in the Spring, and the pH level - which should be adjusted if needed.

Check and adjust drainage: Dig a hole about 10 inches deep and fill with water. The next day, fill with water again and see how long it remains (should not exceed 8 hours). If drainage is poor, plan to plant in raised beds.

Dig the bed. Add 4 to 6 inches organic matter ("OM") to heavy clay to improve soil texture. Dig to a depth of 12 or 18 inches and leave "rough" in fall or early spring. (Note: 2 to 3" of OM should be applied if bed can only be turned 6 to 8" deep.) Finally, in spring, add fertilizer, spade again, and rake the surface smooth.

Planting Times

In the Spring for late-Summer or Fall flowering perennials.
In Late Summer or early Fall for Spring-flowering perennials.

Watering

Watering with sprinklers wets the flowers and foliage, making
them susceptible to diseases; use a soaker hose or drip system.

Mulching

Be careful not to pile mulch heavily over crowns during the Winter,
as this encourages rotting.

Apply mulch around plants only after the soil temperature has
decreased after several killing frosts. If Winter mulch is applied
too early, the warmth may cause new growth to start. Remove Winter
mulch as soon as growth starts in the Spring.

Fertilizing

Use 5-10-5 fertilizer spread in small rings around each plant in March 1,
April 15, and June 1. For late-bloomers, repeat August 15.
Water after fertilizing with granules to wash them off the plants.

Deadheading

Remove spent flowers.
Cut flower stems down to a healthy leaf if more buds, else to the ground.

Progagation

After 3 years, perennials are likely to be overcrowded and need
soil amendments. To divide mature clums, select only vigorous
side shoots from the outer part of the clump and discard the center.
Divide the plant into clumps of 3-5 shoots each.
Divide in the Fall when they can become established before a freeze.

Stagger plant divisions rather than doing a whole bed at once.
Do not put all the divisions back in the same space the originals had.

Cuttings

See http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-002/426-002.html.


Deer-Resistant Plants

(From: This Old House's web site.)

Thanks to their fuzzy leaves, strong fragrance, or bitter taste,
the following plants aren't among deer's favorite nibbles.

Spring-blooming perennials

  • Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) Shade-loving, fernlike plant with pendulous heart-shaped flowers.
  • Bluebell (Hyacinthoide hispanica) Bulb plant with small bell-shaped blue, white, or pink flower clusters°F.
  • Crocus (Crocus sp.) Low, clumping bulb plant with white, yellow, or purple flowers; hardiness varies.
  • Daffodil (Narcissus sp.) Bulb plant with showy yellow or white blooms; hardiness varies.
  • Fritillaria (Fritillaria imperialis) Bulb plant with bell-shaped orange, yellow, or red flowers atop stalklike stems.

    Summer-blooming perennials

  • Bluebeard (Caryopteris) Shrubby plant with deep-blue flower clusters; hardy to -5° F.
  • Catmint (Nepeta faassenii) Compact relative of mint; small purple flowers; hardy to -25° F.
  • Hyssop (Hyssopus officianalis) Large-leaved plant with purplish flower spikes; hardy to -5° F.
  • Lavender (Lavandula) Sun-loving, aromatic flowering herb; many varieties; hardiness varies.
  • Monkshood (Aconitum) Shade tolerant, with hoodlike purple-blue flowers; hardy to -35° F.
  • Mullein (Verbascum) Woolly leaf rosettes with tall flower spikes; hardy to -15° F.

    Groundcovers

  • Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) Creeping evergreen with dark blue flower whorls; hardy to -35° F.
  • Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) Bell-shaped waxy white flowers; hardy to -45° F.
  • Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis) Shade lover; small white or pink flowers; hardy to -25° F.
  • Spotted deadnettle (Lamium) Variegated leaves with white or pink flowers; hardy to -25° F.

    Shrubs

  • Aralia (Araliaceae) Large, bright green foliage with small white flowers; hardy to 5° F.
  • Andromeda (Pieris japonica) Rounded shrub with hanging white or pink flowers clusters; hardy to -5° F.
  • Boxwood (Buxus) Compact, tiny-leaved hedging shrub; hardy to -5° F.
  • Bush cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticose) Extremely cold-hardy; roselike flowers; hardy to -35° F.
  • Oleander (Nerium) Tall, evergreen shrub with large white or pink flowers; hardy to 15° F.
  • Russian olive (Elaeagnus augustifolia) Willowlike leaves and yellowish summer flowers; hardy to -35° F.

    • Provide feedback