Making Sure
Specs Are Met

When I was looking for a builder for my sister-in-law's (Judy's) house in HSV, I put together a set of relatively detailed specifications for two reasons:

  1. To get all builders to bid on the same thing.
  2. To help assure that features important to Judy would be done.

When we found a builder we liked, we incorporated the two pages of specs into the contract by reference. In theory, this gave us a means of assuring that the builder would follow the specs or pay to correct anything not built to specs.

To a large extent, this worked, but things could have gone better. First of all, if you leave it up to the builder to read the specs each time he gets ready to do something to see if there are any special conditions to be met, you are putting a pretty big additional burden on the builder, and no matter how good a builder he is, he may or may not be up to following your detailed specs on top of all the other details he has to worry about. (And chances are that he is working on more than just your house.)

Secondly, if the builder misses something, which is almost certain to happen, correcting the discrepancy may not be worth the time and/or money and you may (as I did) decide to let some things slide. At best, correcting the problem could add days or even weeks to the schedule.

So if you are going to try to specify a lot of construction details as I did, you should make it as easy as possible for the builder to see what special things he needs to do.

If you are NOT going to make detailed specifications and are content to leave things up to the builder, you can stop reading now.

There are inspections, then there are inspections...

If you get a construction loan, the bank will hire an inspector to make sure that work is done before paying the builder for that work. Normally, this inspector does not inspect to assure that the builder has met the specifications of the contract, nor even that the construction is up to accepted standards. This inspector only checks to see that the work has been done.

For example, if the builder is invoicing for the foundation having been built, the inspector will look to see if it has been built, but unless there are glaring problems, will not do a quality check of the work nor make sure that any special specifications have been followed. So do not get a construction loan expecting that this will assure any particular quality of workmanship.

A higher level of inspection will be done by the POA. When they inspect something like the foundation, they will (normally, and as of this writing in 2008) make sure that it is up to code. However, the POA only inspects major items such as the foundation and will not assure the quality of things like sheetrock or tile installation, painting, etc. Also, the POA inspector only checks to make sure that work is up to code, not up to your particular specs.

If you have hired an architect, it will be his job to insure that the builder follows the architect's specs. I have never used an architect, so I don't know how thoroughly they inspect the work. The higher the price of the house, the more the architect will make, so the more attention he will give your house.

The most thorough inspector will, in theory, be you. I say "in theory" because if you do your own inspecting, you must visit the site at least daily at times when a lot is going on, yet you must stay out of the way and not interfere with the workers. If you are the type of person who likes to stop workers and ask them questions about what they are doing, this is NOT a job for you.

You must also be able to recognize when there is a problem, though if you are savvy enough to have drawn up your own list of detailed specs, you should be savvy enough to recognize if they are being followed or not, or if there is an obvious problem which is not being addressed.

Again -- if you are a "talker" and just can't help taking every chance to talk to workers, stay away from the building site. It's not their job to educate or entertain you, and it's not your job to supervise them. If you see something wrong, you should call the builder, though if it will make the problem worse if they keep going, it is alright to tell them to stop while you call, although it is THEIR right to ignore you. (They don't work for YOU.)

Finally, Buss allowed me to serve as the official inspector for purposes of letting Judy know when payments were due for work completed. Judy saved hundreds of dollars that an independent inspector would have charged.

An independent inspector would not be doing quality assurance, simply stating that work had, nominally, been done and payment for it should be made. So our understanding was that I would simply provide that function. I never withheld approval for payment when there was a discrepancy with the specs. I would notify Buss of such discrepancies and either he would get them fixed right away or I would agree to let them slide, but payment was made on time, which was necessary since he normally was already on the hook for materials and labor.

On the other hand, I was watching things pretty closely and if a problem arose, I told Buss immediately; I didn't wait until he presented an invoice.

The customer is NOT always right:

A very nice, pleasant gentleman told me that when his house was being built, the foundation subs left chinks/holes in the mortar and didn't get blocks to line up. When this gentleman complained about it, the builder offered to give him his money back and let him look elsewhere for a house (it was the builder's lot). The wife wanted that lot and house, so he smoothed things over with the builder.

I happen to know this builder, too, and there is no doubt in my mind that he was in the wrong, but it just goes to show that there is a limit to how far you can push a builder, even if he is wrong. You have to choose your battles and only fight for things that are really important and let the little things slide. If things are just going so badly that you can't stand it, you may have to try to get out of the contract and hire another builder and/or take legal action. I have known home owners in our neighborhood who went through more than one builder (sometimes more than two).

The types of houses most builders prefer to do are (1) spec houses which they build completely to their own specs with nobody breathing down their necks, (2) custom homes for which the buyer chooses only standard things like paint colors, flooring, fixtures and appliances, (3)-(9) any other types but the next one, and lastly, (10) a house for which the buyer has provided pages of detailed specifications, some of which do not match the builder's usual way of building. (In case this is too subtle -- if you are reading this, you are a worst-case scenario for a builder, just like me.)

In a healthy housing market, you may have trouble finding a good builder who will agree to build to all of your specs. Why should he when he has all the #1 and #2 type of business he can handle (which is a LOT less stress for him)?

Judy was somewhat lucky that she was building in one of the worst housing markets in decades (2007-8) and builders were more willing to put up with me. Even so, only about half the builders I approached for bids responded.

If a builder is not willing to go along with either your detailed specs or your verifying that they are met (i.e.: breathing down his neck), then you should try a different builder. If you cannot find ANY builders who will meet all of your specs, then you probably will have to drop the problem specs. This may also be the case if the only builders who do agree to all of your specs either want an outrageously high price or do not meet your general standards for builders.


Add Your Specs To The Construction Schedule

Naturally, you will add your specs to the building contract, either in the contract or by reference. But this does not guarantee your specs will be followed. Do you really think you are going to take a builder to court because he refuses to redo a relatively minor detail that doesn't meet your specs?

The best way to assure that your specs are not overlooked is to take the builder's construction and/or payment schedule and integrate your specs into it

Each builder may approach scheduling differently, but Buss gave us a schedule for construction and disbursements. If you get a construction loan, the bank may get this schedule and you may have to ask for a copy. If your builder does not make a schedule, you might use the one below and incorporate it into the contract by reference.

The text indented way over (in the list below) is where I have added specifications to the builder's schedule sheet. These things are optional -- just delete any of them for which you don't want to be bothered. And of course you can add any other specs you wish in the appropriate sections. This list normally does not include items which are already shown on the blueprints or which the builder would have done anyway or which you wish to leave up to the builder.

BUT REMEMBER: The builder bids the house based on your specs. Once a contract has been signed using those specs, you give up the right to complain about any choices the builder makes which are a matter of taste/style and which you did not specify. A builder may let you have some say on things you did not specify, such as interior door style, but he is not obligated to do so, and remember that getting your input when not required is just more time and effort (and possibly cost) for him -- and that's not what he bid on.

To the extent which the builder and his subs follow these specs, you can help insure a certain level of quality, but the ultimate quality of the house will depend on the expertise and integrity of the builder. No matter what you specify, there are too many situations which can arise which you did not foresee or know about and which rely on the builder to resolve successfully. There will be things which you do not specify where a builder can either use that opportunity to take a shortcut, or he can aim for the highest quality. This is where you find out how good a job you did picking a builder.

If you use this list to get bids from different builders, they should show the costs of each major (numbered) item on the list and use this when billing you (or the bank) during construction. By using this for billing, you can be assured that the builder will look at the detailed specs of items for which you are being billed, as well as for items he is preparing to do.

To edit or print just the list below, cut-and-paste it into your word processor.


SHOP IN ADVANCE

If you do not permit any allowances in your contract, then you will not have any unpleasant surprises at closing. You can avoid allowances either by allowing the builder to choose things, which will not turn out well unless you just don't care at all how things look (because his taste and judgment are unlikely to exactly match yours on every detail), or you can make your selections in advance and specify brands and models in your bid requests, as well as where you found the items.

The advantage of the latter is that you know exactly what you will be getting, yet it rewards a builder who knows how to get the best prices on these things. (When possible, specify that other brands may be substituted so long as the style, materials, colors, and quality are the same. This provides an alternative if a particular item you select cannot be located at the time of construction.)

If you choose to pick your own fixtures, then it just becomes a question of when you do the shopping. By doing it before you put out for bids, you have a lot more control than if you wait until you are into the building process.

The Internet (and Google) makes it very easy to see a wide variety of products, and even alternatives that you may not have even been aware of. And it's FUN!

If you absolutely must wait until after contruction begins to pick light fixtures, fans, appliances, etc., then make sure that the allowances cover only those specific things. An allowance should specify exactly what it is for, such as light fixtures, not a general category like "electrical".

Never agree to allowances for things the builder is responsible for planning for and purchasing, such as foundation blocks, concrete, etc.


FINAL WARNING!!

If you draw your own floor plan and/or make an extensive list of specifications for how the house should be built, you are taking on the duties of professionals who have years of training and experience. While the process of building a home may appear simple and straightforward, nothing done by professionals is ever as simple as it looks to the untrained eye. Proceed at your own risk, and at a minimum, give the benefit of the doubt to your builder or his subs who suggest changes to your plans or specs.


Here we go. Cut-and-paste the following into your word processor. Revise to your specs and erase my comments other than direct instructions or specifications. Example: "Select: trusses or solid wood" -- change the line to either "Trusses" or "Solid wood", or if you are getting a slab, take out the whole "Pier and Beam" section.


Construction/Payment Schedule and Specifications

A copy of this schedule with specifications checked off by the builder, and change orders signed by the customer for any changes to these specifications, must accompany each request for payment.

  1. Clearing/Grading
        • Buyer marks trees to be saved and/or removed.
        • Buyer or builder puts plastic fence around the drip lines of trees
          which are likely to need protection during construction.
        • Builder notifies buyer when lot is to be cleared so that the
          buyer can be present for questions which arise during clearing.
        • Builder agrees to remove dead trees, undesirable trees, and
          brush outside the building area as specified by buyer.
        • Ground under the foundation is treated for termites (by specified company?).
  2. Septic/sewer tap

  3. Footings (minimum 2')

  4. Foundation walls
  5. Under-floor plumbing
  6. Framing and roof:
        • Wall studs: 2"x4" [or 2"x6" - per contract], 16" on center
        • Plywood or OSB(?) sheathing on walls, minimum 1/2"
        • Tyvek (or similar) barrier/wrap on all walls.
        • Plywood sheathing on roof, 3/4" with H-clips.
        • Select: Hip roof or gables.
        • Select: turbine or ridge roof vents.
        • Step-up/trayed/vaulted ceiling per drawing and specs.
        • Extra support on front porch ceiling joists for hanging swing (if swing is specified).
        • Bracing between walls of bathrooms where towel bars are to be mounted.
  7. Exterior Walls
        • Whether siding, brick, wood, or stucco, find out as much as you can about the materials and specify what you want. For example, if using vinyl siding, specify the thickness and color and brand.
        • Material for soffits, fasica boards, etc.
  8. Front porch
        • Dyed and/or stamped concrete, and if so, color?
        • Hanging swing support in covered front porch ceiling trusses?

  9. Back patio or deck per blueprint
        • Type of material for patio/decking
        • Type of railing, if railing is required/specified.
        • If concrete: dyed, stamped, and if so, color?
        • If wood, it should be sealed (specify brand, type, color of stain/sealer).
  10. Plumbing, rough-in
        • Builder: See blueprint for exterior water faucet locations.
        • Single cut-off lever for both hot and cold water supplies for washer.
        • Attach steel plates to studs where holes are drilled through for pipes or wires to protect them from nails and screws.
  11. Tub(s), shower(s) (Also see Plumbing Fixtures, below.)
        • Builder: See pictures/drawings/specs for tubs and showers.
        • Specify: glass doors/walls or shower curtain.
          If curtain, specify: curved rod (more space) or straight rod
          and specify finish on rod: chrome, brushed nickel, etc.
          If glass, specify: clear glass or type of pattern.
  12. HVAC rough-in (ducts)
        • Select: floor or ceiling vents.
        • Location of returns per blueprints.
  13. Electrical rough-in
        • If not already on the blueprint, the builder should notify the
          buyer when locations of outlets are to be set. Figure where your
          living room furniture will go to see if you need to have floor
          outlets for power and/or phone.
        • Specify location of speaker, power, and coax outlets depending
          on where you will put TV(s) -- mounted on the wall or on a table.
        • Wiring for rear/side surround sound speakers and coax should
          terminate with wall plates with standard connectors for attachment.
        • Speaker wire should be a minimum of 16 guage. For runs over 25',
          use 14 guage. (Smaller numbers indicate thicker/better wires.)
          (It may be best to specify that you will provide such wire in order to
          insure the correct thing. Eventually, you have to pay for it anyway.)
        • TV coax distribution point should be in a panel/box in the garage.
        • Two coax (TV) cables to main TV viewing location(s).
        • Coax (TV) to other rooms from distribution point.
        • Coax wall boxes should have connectors on the wall plate.
        • Speaker wire wall boxes should have screw posts on the wall plate.
        • Exterior lights away from front and back doors per blueprint.
        • Post lights at end of driveway? If so, on timer, switch or sensor?
        • Specify brand and model of bathroom heater/vents.
          Look for quietest with greatest air movement. Builder will otherwise
          usually furnish an inexpensive one which will not be as quiet or effective,
          but you will save little or no money from his doing so.
        • Use SEALED canned lights only (to keep out bugs).
        • Location of breaker box. (My first choice: laundry room, 2nd: garage,
          last: outside - who wants to go out in the dark/cold/rain when a breaker
          trips?)
        • Use appropriate types of fluorescents (bulb, flood, chandelier) in all
          fixtures. Do not use any incadescents, halogens, etc., unless specified.
  14. Furnace(s)
        • Capacity: ____
        • Number of units: ____
        • Location: ____________________
  15. Fireplace(s) (if any)
        • Zero-clearance or not?
        • Wood burning, gas, or both?
        • If gas -- vented or unvented?
        • Blower for heat circulation in house?
  16. Roofing
        • Type of roofing (shingle, metal).
        • If shingle, type, life, and color of shingle.
        • Type of venting. Ridge vents preferable. If turbines, there
          should be one for each "nook" to assure that all areas are
          properly ventilated. Heat build-up can destroy roof shingles.
        • Gutters
          • Type of gutter (actual gutters or "Rainhandler")
          • Material (aluminum, copper, etc.)
          • Location (below all roof slopes or specific places)
          • Color (match wall colors or contrasting or other)
          • Gutter pipes in ground to route water from foundation.
          • Leaf guards (screen or "helmets")
  17. Garage door(s)
        • Size: ____
        • Color (e.g.: same as siding outside, same as walls or trim inside)
        • Material (metal, wood, etc.)
        • Brand and model, if specified.
        • Type of garage door opener(s).
        • Entry pad on outside of garage door.
        • Springs wrapped in paper/plastic to protect from paint. [Springs must be able to move freely for door opener to work. Paint will cause the spring coils to stick together.]
        • Builder: See pictures for style of garage door windows, if any.
  18. Windows and exterior glass doors
        • Low-e?
        • SHGC (heat gain) rating = .30-.32
        • U-factor (heat loss) = .30-.32
        • VT (tinting): 0.6 = clear, 0.5 = moderate tint.
        • Frame material: (either vinyl or wood, not metal/aluminum)
        • Frame color (if vinyl, choices limited): ________
        • Location and size of (each) skylight on roof: ______x_______
          and size of opening in the ceiling: ______x_______.
        • Location of sun-tube(s), if any.
        • Retractable screen doors on front/back?
        • Specify which windows should open, how they open, screens, etc.
  19. Outside walls
        • Material (brick, vinyl or wood siding, etc.)
        • Brand
        • Color
        • Other specs (e.g.: thickness of vinyl)
        • Siding should be at least 6" from the ground. (If siding goes down
          to or near the ground, termites get a protected entry to your house.
          Remember, too, that landscapers will be adding dirt.)
  20. Wall insulation
        • Before insulating, seal all openings to crawl space and/or attic.
          (Bugs, spiders, scorpions, and even mice can get in through these
          holes which were made for running plumbing and electric lines.
          Use cans of spray foam made for sealing such holes.)
        • Type of insulation: batt, blown, foam?
        • Minimum R-factor: ____
        • Interior walls insulated (for sound, usually around kitchen, TV, laundry)?
  21. Attic insulation - type and R-factor

  22. Sheetrock
  23. Flooring:
        • List type (and brand and model) of flooring by room.
        • Tile must be mounted on cement board.
        • Carpet:
          • Carpet specs (in case brand/model not available):
            _______________________________________________
          • Pad specs: ______________________________________
          • Use vapor barrier below carpet pad.
  24. Cabinets/vanities
        • Buyer must approve cabinet maker's drawings and any subsequent changes to them.
        • Full-extension (self-closing?) slides on all drawers.
        • Hardware to be selected or approved by buyer.
        • Base units in kitchen to be drawers, not cabinets (except under sink and cooktop).
        • Upper cabinets to go to ceiling.
        • Corner cabinet specs (lazy susan, other)
        • Cabinet styles and hardware as chosen by buyer.
        • Cabinet over toilet in master bath (minimum shelf depth: 6.5").
        • Cabinets over washer and dryer in laundry room.
          Start no lower than 51" to allow for front-loading w/d on stands.
          Cabinets should come out to front edge trim of w/d for front-loaders.
        • Double-oven to start 19" from floor. (This reduces bending over and allows a bigger drawer at the bottom for pots and pans.)
        • Specify type of wood to be used for various cabinets.
        • Specify paint brand, color, etc., or stain brand, etc. to be used.

  25. Cabinet/vanity tops, blacksplashes, and finishes
        Kitchen: Baths:
        • Countertop material and style name/number.
        • Integrated sink (of same material)
        • Material to be used in shower.
        • Material to be used around tub.
  26. Trim and closets
        • See sketch of closet layout for single-pole, double-pole areas
          and location of built-in cabinets/shelves.
        • Shelves over hanging poles deep enough to completely cover clothes.
        • Types of closet doors: bi-fold, track, hinged.
        • Material to be used for closet shelves, etc.: wood, metal, plastic. If wood, type of wood; thickness; stain or paint?
        • Trim on edge of shelves.
        • Type of clothes poles (wood, metal, etc.)
        • Type of supports for clothes poles.
        • Edge of door frames should be covered to prevent dings.
        • Crown molding and floor molding as specified.
        • Joints in molding to be sanded down to the same level.
        • Door and window frames to be level and square.
  27. Driveway and sidewalk(s)
        • Width and location of driveway?
        • Location and shape of sidewalk(s)?
        • Dyed (color)? Stamped (pattern)?
        • If fill is used, compact it with a vibratory plate machine or equivalent.
        • Minimum specs for driveway concrete:
          • 4000+ psi
          • 5"+ thick
          • Air content: 5%-7%
          • Slump of 4" or less.
          • Aggregrate size: 3/4" to 1"
          • Finish: exposed aggregrate / dyed & stamped / other
          • Jointing: every 6' square
          • Strengthing: rebar, wire, polyproylene fibers?
            Corners of driveway by street: no less than 5" thick and rebar reinforced.
            (Or square off ends rather than tapering out to points which tend to break.)
          • Concrete not to be poured if freezing temperatures expected in next week, or concrete to be protected if freezing temperatures occur. If hot weather, concrete is to be sprayed during first week. (See link above for additional specs for freezing or hot weather.)
          • Driveway and sidewalks are to be barricaded to prevent traffic on them for a minimum of 1 week.
          • Breaks, cracks, holes, chips in any exposed concrete are to be repaired, whether in the driveway, sidewalks, porches, or garage floor.
          • After concrete has cured, garage floor will be finished as specified and the driveway will be sealed with a penetrating sealer.
  28. Wall texturing
  29. Painting and wallpaper
  30. Flooring (tile, carpet)
        • No visible seams in carpet.
        • No bulges in carpet at doorway.
        • Seal grout in tile(?)
        • Tile is to be laid on cement board over plywood subflooring.
          Vapor barrier under carpet pad.
  31. Hardware (handles, hinges, locks)
  32. Electric fixtures
        • Brands and models fixtures selected: _________________________
        • Use only SEALED canned lights.
        • Types of bulbs to be used and where (halogen, fluorescent, etc.)
        • Location and types of outdoor lights as indicate on blueprint.
        • Location and types of lights, if any, under kitchen cabinets.
  33. Plumbing fixtures:
        • Type of finish (chrome, stainless steel, brushed nickel, etc.)
        • Brands and models of fixtures selected: _______________________
          If builder is selecting hardware/fixtures, specify style and
          type, such as contemporary and brushed nickel, single or
          double handle faucets, etc.

  34. Appliances, Kitchen Sink And Related Fixtures
        • Size of hot water heater.
        • For Judy's house, to avoid needing an appliance allowance,
          we left the choice of appliances up to the builder with the
          stipulation that they all have stainless steel exteriors, so
          they became part of the builder's competitive bid. Judy also
          specified a microwave in the cooktop hood, a double-oven, and
          an ultra-quiet dishwasher.
        • If you get a combination microwave and cooktop hood, be sure
          to specify whether you want the exhaust vented back into the
          kitchen or out the roof. There are pros and cons to each.
        • If you have an appliance allowance, the builder will probably
          send you to Metro Building Supply in Little Rock. While there,
          you can also pick non-built-ins (which are not part of the
          contract) such as a refrigerator, freezer, and washer/dryer.
          You will save a lot of money over buying them separately and
          they will be delivered at the same time. You pay the builder
          for them separtely from the contract, so check with the builder
          before doing all of this.
        • Type, style, shape of sink as in specs/contract
        • Accessories for sink:
          • Sprayer (with faucet or separate?)
          • Soap dispenser
          • Hot water dispenser/tank

  35. Final Items To Be Done By Builder:
        • The normal final grading around the house. (You may want to
          consult with a landscaper about how this should be done and
          what material -- city pit, top soil, etc. -- should be used.
          Foundation must rise at least 6" above grade and siding must
          not go below that point.)
          (Full landscaping in not included unless specified.)
        • Remove any concrete dumped on the ground around the house.
        • Fixing items on final walk-through list. (Do a preliminary
          walk-through by yourself the day before so that you can be
          unrushed, then do the final walk-through with the builder.)
        • Provide lien waivers/releases from all subs and suppliers.
        • Provide owner's manuals for all products and warranties for
          windows, termite treatment, HVAC, etc. (Buyer: contact the
          pest control and HVAC companies to get extended service
          agreements.)